Showing posts with label Reviews. Show all posts

Saath Jaye Gi Parwaaz Meri

Dazed, I followed the crowd out of the movie theatre making my way to the exit. Back under the lights, I looked around to ensure no one ...


Dazed, I followed the crowd out of the movie theatre making my way to the exit. Back under the lights, I looked around to ensure no one was staring. Why would they be? It was just a movie and I was just one amongst a sizeable audience now walking by with no concern for the tears I was unable to hold back. I felt a gentle hand on my shoulder and turned around to find Ambreen, tearful eyes searching mine, seeking solace and offering it. I exhaled, as if this was the sign I awaited, and fell into her arms sobbing uncontrollably.  There we stood, in Vox Cinema at Mall of the Emirates in Dubai, two PAF brats remembering our enchanted childhood, she acutely conscious of my melancholy, I simply grateful for a shoulder to cry on.    

Bilal, my youngest, shifted awkwardly by my side. He had suffered a week of “lets-go-lets-not” indecision at my hands and was probably regretting his vote in favor. A teenage boy’s worst nightmare has to be a publicly emotional mom!  We both love the movies, but we hardly ever agree on what to watch. Despite my “lame lectures” (his words) on supporting the desi film industry, never before had he suggested we watch a Pakistani film. I was grateful for the opportunity to engage him with content from home that I loved, but I found myself weak and fearful in anticipation of intense nostalgia. It is a familiar anxiety, one that pours into my being and consumes me at seemingly inconsequential instances; the thunder of a fighter aircraft flying by, a visit to a PAF base, a glimpse of the glorious blue, running into Abbi’s old buddies, meeting Razi’s coursemates at a wedding, the odd milli naghma playing on TV.  For the same reason that I don’t sift through old photographs, have never watched Razi’s cherished collection of home videos, keep delaying selection of a spot to display his many trophies in our home in Islamabad, I dreaded watching “Parwaaz Hai Junoon”. I like being in control, and reminders of a life and love lost are uncomfortably compromising.   

Young Fl Cdt Raja Rizwan Ullah Khan (Shaheed) winning the Sword of Honor.

Ambreen is AVM Akhtar Bukhari’s younger daughter. Her father and mine were great buddies. AVM Bukhari was posted at Risalpur when Razi won the prestigious sword of honor and best pilot’s trophy. We have much in common. Sohail, Ambreen’s husband, put an arm around Bilal and reassured him; “don’t worry, this happens when they meet – it’s an Air Force thing”. Bilal nodded in agreement, simultaneously reaching out in reflex as Ambreen descended upon him with open arms for a tight hug. I realized he too was caught up in the moment. He spent only three years of his life associated with the PAF, has vague memories and feels generally disconnected. But, every now and then, when confronted with reminders, especially those that appeal to his adventurous sensibilities as did this Pakistani avatar of Top Gun, the look in his eyes morphs into a whisper in my ear; “I remember this…he carried me there…we were playing dogfights…didn’t he say this?....I wish….” - and there it stands, suspended between us – Silence.  

Thus had we the good fortune of watching Parwaaz Hai Junoon, a veritable homecoming for us, for which we must thank a progressively media savvy PAF and ISPR, production houses that deemed it a worthy investment, and the many advisors and artistes who brought to life a community of unique characteristics and peculiar associations – the Pakistan Air Force family. For all my trepidation, I am so glad we took our hearts along and went.    

This is not a review in the traditional sense. I don’t aim to elaborate issues of editing, acting, background score, gaps in narrative. Indeed, there were many and one found various elements fairly ordinary. The final product was glossy and colorful as expected by an audience bred on bollywood and action heroes, but edits were jarring on occasion, dialogue seemed contrived sometimes, and musical score was wholly forgettable. I fail to understand using Azaan Sami Khan while immensely talented alternatives were available. Even if his dad helped from across the border the end-product was soul-less. Musafir fared better than others, connecting with the story’s sentiment, but Bhulleya and Tham Lo stumbled and fell despite promising catch-phrases and storyboard. A heavy-bike riding young maverick with a sun-kissed passenger, smirks and thumbs-up in upside down aircraft, and a general badass attitude by cadets, pilots, OCs and training staff …well….PHJ tried just a bit too hard to be Top Gun.  It need not have. With a powerful storyline, well sketched characters, impressively researched scenarios, it had an overall ethos sufficient to endear it to an audience eager to engage. 


No 8 Squadron, 1965. They were known as Haiders, and their motto was "Aik Aur Zarb e Haideri". They flew B-57 Bombers and were one of the highest decorated Squadrons in 1965, with probably the highest casualty rate as well. Abbi 4th from left, front row.

I was very young when Tariq Aziz produced an air force film titled “Qasam Us Waqt Ki”. I got neither head nor tail of it and thought that Tariq Aziz looked nothing like my father or any of his “partners”.  Ammi hated the film, and I believe it tanked.  Many years later, there was a more credible attempt on TV titled “Shahpar” in which Rizwan featured as OC Squadron (which he was) and was convinced acted stupendously well (which he did not).  Shahpar did not impress me even though it made a valiant effort to depict our lives accurately. While the action was well filmed, the storyline of a pilot crashing an aircraft in girl trouble frustration rendered the plot unrealistic. A pilot’s fundamental training is to remain calm, objective and alert in the face of extreme stress, and Shahpar’s story negated this. It got good ratings amongst the average audience, but not within PAF circles. 

Without a doubt, Parwaaz Hai Junoon towers over all previous attempts despite some anecdotal, artistic exaggerations. 

Aerial shots were as fantastical as they come, pun intended. The unschooled reveled in them, the knowledgeable exclaimed ‘kya yaar…this maneuver is impossible… too much drama yaar!”, but all watched breathless, at the edge of their seats, scrambling with Hamza and Nadir, soaring in their F-16 Fighting Falcons and JF-17 Thunders, landing safely to raucous welcome and rousing Allah hu Akbars - heartwarming stuff that I have, a few times, been privileged to witness first-hand.  ADA, flight-lines and squadrons are hallowed ground where trust in comrades, respect for machine and craft, and commitment to mission permeate the air and consume those who serve. I was particularly touched by the shout-out to “Griffins”, insignia of one of the oldest squadrons, No. 9 of Sargodha, in which my Shaheed husband served besides commanding the equally prestigious No. 11 and the unmatchable CCS.  Sargodha, the “Shaheen’s” abode, deserves a story of its own….later someday. 

The extent of artistic license taken with the environs in which Hamza courts his love, Sania, was amusing. In reality, depending upon the squadron he was posted at, Sqn. Ldr. Hamza could have been in Sargodha or Kamra, Jacobabad maybe? It looked like he and Sania were riding his bike down Murree Hills and trekking on Trail 3 in Islamabad, and his ever-present OC was fishing (alone) in what could only be Rawal Lake or something more heavenly up north. Maybe PAF bases have grown lakes, picturesque drives and treks, cute dhabas and khokhas and convenient nooks in which to romance and woo since I last visited; in my time, there were none such anywhere close! We would drive to Chakkiyan for world-famous daal roti and somewhere near bum-chowk one could sample Tufail’s delectable karahi. As for romantic spots, rare opportunities presented themselves during excursions to Lowertopa and Kalabagh, ski trips to Naltar and perhaps Hawkesbay and Sandspit. One was always amongst a crowd of squadron families so nothing much happened. Maybe Hamza visited Sania’s city every weekend, as did Razi when I lived in Lahore and he in Sargodha. It’s possible.

Come to think of it, I knew not one unmarried Sqn. Ldr. during my PAF years.  Swashbuckling pilots are a high demand commodity and get taken early in their careers, the rank of Flt. Lt. spelling end of bachelor days for them. How did the hunk Hamza remain unattached to the ripe old rank of Sqn. Ldr. ? One wonders. 


For me, the most entertaining sequence was at the academy, with the cadets. I grew up alongside cadets at Risalpur and Lowertopa as my father was long associated with training command. My pre-teen self fancied them heartthrobs, albeit somewhat lacking in social etiquette and with a peculiar pattern of spoken English (which I later discovered was equally odd in written form and continued thus throughout their lives). In pine-scented Lowertopa, my friends and I would watch the cadets march up and down the tree-lined path dubbed “lovers’ lane” and giggle at their somber faces. Our favorite cadet was Shigri - rowdy, hyperactive, artistically inclined, with a captivating singing voice – but “bohot shararti” in my mother’s words. One day, as we settled to watch an inter-house hockey match, a head-shaved Shigri jogged on to the field, a flush of embarrassment on his face.  “Hai Allah, eh ki keeta tussi ?” Ammi, who felt motherly towards the cadets, exclaimed to Abbi. Our collective jaws dropped at ‘ganja Shigri” and we all looked to our fathers for explanation; “was this a punishment to our hero ?”.  Abbi chuckled.  I could never extract the complete story but there was a harmless little scandal, and this was Abbi’s amused and appreciative way to reprimand the young man for his reckless but courageous adventure. There were some beloved faces amongst the cadets who were Razi’s seniors – Rizvi, Alamdar, Shigri Bhai of course – who died young. Pilots ko nazar bohot lagti hai.  

PHJ’s casting director deserves special appreciation. Nearly everyone fit the role hand in glove, with many stealing and some resolutely holding the limelight. Shafaat Ali stole my heart as the comical, generous, ultimately suspended cadet. With his extraordinary talent for mimicry and undeniable screen presence, he is a star in the making. Petite Hania Aamir shone bright, so uninhibited and spontaneous was she on screen, with expressive but understated emotion in her voice and on her face. Ahad Raza Mir was far better suited for this role than the heavies he has been playing on TV, and he navigated the dark shades of his character with aplomb. I thought Shaz Khan embodied the newly wedded PAF Officer; one instantly empathized with him and his equally well cast wife Kubra Khan. Amongst the many real life PAF associations in the film, Shaz Khan was one - through his grandfather Air Cdre. Masood Hatmi and his Uncle who is currently serving.  Shaz’s mother Huma and I share the PAF bond; what a moment of nostalgic pride for her. 

Hamza Ali Abbasi as his namesake officer was perplexing for me. He brought star power essential for box office success, but I wonder if his overzealous image and loud representation deducted rather than added. Truth be told, while PAF pilots’ task is formidable and they operate on high adrenalin, of the many that I have known in my life, only a few misguided ones were pompous, cocky and attention-seeking. My father’s generation, trained in the 50s and 60s, boasted some mavericks who would buzz their girlfriends’ homes or – as in his case – ancestral villages to show off to the gaggle of adoring aunts and uncles watching from below. Theirs was a young force, with the top boss below 40 years of age, serving an equally young nation, so irrational adventurism was expected. My husband’s generation and thereafter operates in an increasingly cautious and regulated environment, and the collective public persona of the PAF pilot is one of supreme confidence with control, humility, and often some social conservatism. But….”dil ke khush rakhne ko”….Hamza as eye candy for the nation’s young ‘uns was game. It worked. 

There is much to be loved and lauded about Pakistan Air Force. The military is a great equalizer, perhaps the only institution where capable young people from all backgrounds stand an equal chance to compete and excel. I have known the son of a Mess waiter win his wings alongside that of a senior officer.  Pilots are a unique community the world over, their shared characteristics crossing geographic borders. I recall officers of many nationalities in my husband’s study syndicate at Royal Air Force Staff College watching Top Gun during weekend GTs, guffawing at cringeworthy, over the top sequences, listening to the anthem on repeat and sharing stories. Love of flying dismisses all boundaries. Finally, while we all undertake jobs to earn a living and improve our worldly lot, some do more; they answer to a higher calling. PAF pilots are a few such. They are called “Shaheen" after the glorious bird, characterized by the great Iqbal in his poem of the same title.  In my life, I have known many who were humbled by their status as Ghazi and preferred to be Shaheed like their fallen comrades. To them, the words of Faora in Superman rang true; “a good death is its own reward”. I have also known many Shaheeds who loved life and valued it greatly, but the essence of their existence lay in every PAF pilot’s favorite poem: 

Parindon ki duniya ka dervesh hun main
Ke shaheen banata nahin aashiyana

Complete No 11 Sqn on the Third consecutive Win of the TOPGUN trophy. OC 11 Wg Cmdr Raja Rizwan Ullah Khan (Shaheed) in front. 



This September, on Pakistan Air Force day, here is a prayer on behalf of those who love the Shaheens most – their families.

May you fly forever and land safely every time, hopefully in this material world to return to your loving families and warm homes. But if your destiny is to land elsewhere – upon “Arsh”, the domain of Allah and his angels - then so be it, for;

Urr ke pohoncho ge tum jis ufaq par
Sath jaye gi parwaaz meri



Epilogue


Shaheen (The Falcon)
by Allama Iqbal
With translation by Lt. Col. (Retd.) Harish Puri, Indian Army

Kiya main ne uss khakdaan se kinara
Jahan rizq ka naam hai aab-o-dana

Bayaban ki khalwat khush aati hai mujh ko
Azal se hai fitrat meri rahebana

Na baad-e-bahari, na gulcheen, na bulbul
Na beemari-e-naghma-e-ashiqana

Khayabanion se hai parhaiz laazim
Adaen hain inki bohat dilbarana

Hawa-e-bayaban se hoti hai kaari
Jawan mard ki zarbat-e-ghaziyana

Hamam-o-kabootar ka bhooka nahin main
Ke hai zindagi baaz ki zahidana

Jhapatna, palatna, palat kar jhapatna
Lahu garm rakhne ka hai ek bahana

Ye poorab, ye pacham chakoron ki duniya
Mera neelgun aasman baikarana

Parindon ki duniya ka dervesh hun mein
Ke shaheen banata nahin aashiyana

Give me not bread nor water, nor grain
I soar in the skies, I’ve forsaken all pain 

The solitude, the wilderness, those are for me
For I am a falcon, I’ll always be free

No flowers, no spring, no nightingale’s song
No ballads of love, can ever belong

These colorful blossoms, these flowers I shun
Their seductive charms have often undone 

The storms of the desert are ours to embrace
They forge our sinews, and give us our grace  

I seek not a pigeon, a swallow or seed 
For I am a falcon, and this is my creed 

The swooping, the soaring the lunge & the dive
Just warm up my blood, just keep me alive

To East, to the West, the pheasants can fly 
For me, I just crave the vast open sky

A dervish am I, no nesting for me
For I am a falcon, I’ll always be free 

Title from the Milli Naghma “Ae Watan Ke Sajeeley Jawano” by Jamiluddin Aali


Why I won’t watch Padmavat-i

I feel like the mirror image of Karni Sena, and I’m not proud of it.   It’s not like me to take a right-wingish position on freedom...


I feel like the mirror image of Karni Sena, and I’m not proud of it.  

It’s not like me to take a right-wingish position on freedom of expression, especially when the medium is art, my beloved.  At the fanatical height of the demonization of Salman Rushdie, I stood firm on “must read first” (until I read and…well…later, on that one). Add to that my utter devotion to anything Bollywood – art house, commercial, kitsch, even preposterous and outlandish. Thus, I surprise myself by passing up a Bhansali-Deepika-Ranveer iMax extravaganza which, in the past, has abundantly satiated my appetite for the magnum opus. In shopping mall ridden, brand enslaved, social climbing Dubai, desi movies are an abiding escape for the indifferent. I watch all Pakistani movies, good-bad-often pukey, because I have vowed to support and strengthen our film industry, perpetually on its last breath.  I watch nearly all Indian movies, often equally pukey, because every now and then a brilliant one emerges and induces a euphoric “paisa wasool” high. Retail therapy doesn’t compare with the sublime gratification of 45 plus 50 (yes, I succumb to junk food…what of it? ) dirhams guiltlessly spent at the cineplex. 

It is, therefore, incredible that I aim to give Padmavat a miss, not only at the local theatre but also later when it eventually screens at my second most favorite venue, Emirates Airlines. Having ….err….not watched the film, here are the reasons why - not and will not. The irony is not lost on me; as I said, I’m not proud of it, but I have resolved, and I remain resolute. 

I cannot understand what Karni Sena was protesting. A Maharani’s exposed navel, her public pirouetting? They should have lapped up this nauseating tribute to Rajput honor, a mockery of history though it made.  I was born into a Rajput family on my mother’s side. I also married into one, both my mother’s ancestors and my husband’s having been converted by the sword during the reign of the self-righteous Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb, less than 400 years ago. Fairly recent, one would say, relative to our land’s ancient history, thus overly zealous as rookie converts are. Being Muslim did not undermine their Rajput-ness, though, and one grew up with tales of Rajput valor ad-nauseum. Drama queen that I was, I fancied myself a Rajput princess sending her prince off to war with a tilak of blood drawn from my thumb which I cut upon his fabled sword. What rubbish! The fact is the Rajputs fared miserably against invading adversaries, and their women’s sole claim to fame remains their haste to self-immolate after the men lost their lives in battle.  Courageous they were, no doubt, but not very clever. If I were Karni Sena, I would have hailed Padmavati, sensually exposed navel and all, as the definitive depiction of Rajput grandeur rather than dig my heels in against it for so many months, having ultimately achieved nothing more than the emasculation – or should we say efeminization – of Padmavati to Padmavat. 

Despite my Rajput roots and regardless of my faith, I – thankfully like most of us - hold the practice of Jauhar in contempt. Life is most precious and must not be sacrificed unless for an infinitely greater good, in defense of humanity. I consider Jauhar a cowardly act and remain confounded why mankind’s honor is associated singularly with a woman’s being, in fact lives in a woman’s body parts. Modern day misogyny owes a great debt to Sub-continental practices of rendering womankind the mascot of all ills in society, so much so that our collective cuss-words nearly all evoke imaginative, detailed degradation of the female. The day men’s vulnerable honor finds its way out of a woman’s crevices and into their own credence, conduct and courage will be the day women will become truly secure and need no more jump into the pyre which we continue to do -symbolically - at various stages of our contemporary lives.  Women, too, must consciously discover their own identity free of society’s travesty. It is wonderfully romantic to be a mother, daughter, wife, sister but amidst these expedient roles one mustn’t lose “me”. Conversely, from the dregs of the social order – whore, tramp, slut – must emerge a respectable definition of a working woman who feeds and clothes her household in an unjust world crafted by bigotry, misogyny and dogma.  Neither devi nor dasi, let her just be woman. 


The Chittorgarh Jauhar, upon defeat at the hands of Alauddin, is a historic fact so cannot be argued. Truth is the best recourse, no matter how devastating. But I cannot condone Bhansali’s glorification of it in Padmavat because, subconsciously, such subtle messages are internalized by the gullible who often channel them into behavior. Such is the power of cinematic storytelling. Talk is that the climax is breathtaking, leaving the audience with their jaws hitting the cinema floor. If this is so, I wish he had presented it with less splendor, on a subdued scale. I wonder how the audience would react to a depiction of the aftermath of hundreds of women and children being burnt to death. Can we fathom the horror of such a visual, and would Bhansali’s Padmavat withstand this truth?

What does one say about Ranveer Singh! The man is a god of cinematic portrayal. Many great roles played by Bollywood veterans, if attempted by Ranveer, would be rendered greater. Amongst contemporary leading men, only Nawazuddin Siddiqui beats Ranveer Singh and, in my book, not just in talent and skill but also in looks (who’d’ve thought I’d ever go for the “maila” type but I concede, Nawaz is irresistible!). So, it must be expected that a villain coming to life in Ranveer’s head would give Gabbar and Mogambo a run for their money. Unfortunately, Bhansali’s ambition to give Indian cinema the greatest villain of all times drives him to self-immolate at the feet of ethical storytelling. The other casualty is the truth about Alauddin Khilji.

Invading Turk-Afghan armies, which descended in waves upon India, were never merciful. Their objective was invariably to loot, plunder and abscond, never to co-exist and settle with the local population in peace and harmony.  Muslims ruled India for about 1000 years, and one cannot brush aside the treacherous nature of many Muslims despots. On the other hand, there were the Mughals, worthy of the jewel called India. Having purposefully converted their foreign status to domestic, they became recognized as settlers rather than invaders, and gifted India with her most glorious, peaceful and progressive chapter in history. The Mughals were great no doubt, and history tells us the Khiljis were less so.   

But no amount of salt, taken in pinches or buckets full, can justify the characterization of Alauddin Khilji as conceived and sketched by Sanjay Leela Bhansali in Padmavat. Bhansali’s Khilji is maniacal, evil to the core, petty and superficial, ill-mannered and “dark” to boot.  The lurking-shadows ambience in which Khilji dwells seems to suggest that not just he, everyone around him is imbued equally with the same menacing, negative spirit. In the sorcerous hands of Ranveer the magician, Alauddin Khilji comes to such palpable life that I am barely able to hold my gaze steady upon him in the teasers.

I wonder if every Muslim in this mythical Padmavat is malicious and evil by default, and every Hindu Rajput is resplendent and pristine? I am reminded of similar suggestions in old Pakistani films, far inferior in all aspects of production than Padmavat but equal in their ambition to portray the antagonist as a scourge of humanity. I was a mere child but I recall feeling uncomfortable, fearful and humiliated – not by the portrayal of evil but because of the injustice of projecting a community of people collectively as such. I never bought into the devious Hindu baniya draped in saffron with designs on the goody-two-shoes Muslim heroine, and I cannot accept a ridiculous caricature unabashedly hinting at inherent flaws in a man’s Muslim DNA. 

I object to the appalling distortion of history as portrayed by Bhansali. I find it conspiratorial, agenda-based, and deceitful, intended to confuse generations of South Asians, Hindus and Muslims alike, about the reality of our shared heritage.  


Alauddin Khilji was a merciless ruler, it is written. He was also the savior of his empire from Mongol armies biting at its borders, itching to break in and wreak havoc. Alauddin was an insatiable annexer of land, and the siege of Chittorgarh was for this purpose, and not because he was covetous of a Rajput Maharani. He ransacked neighboring kingdoms to fulfill his ambition to become Alexander II, but he patronized all learned and talented subjects in an environment of inter-racial, inter-religious harmony. 

It seems fantastical that the greatest Sufi poet of all times, Ameer Khusrau, flourished and wrote his prolific, ageless and delicately refined poetry under the sponsorship of (if Bhansali is to be believed) a feral, demented monarch who pulled at and devoured meat as if he were a depraved Viking accidentally dumped in elegant, learned India. It is ironic that many who watch and believe Ranveer’s Alauddin, and indeed are repelled by him, would be Khusrau devotees enchanted by the bard’s powerful evocation of Hindu tradition alongside Muslim references. 

I do not attempt a defense of Alauddin Khilji. I simply demand the statement of truth unscarred, uncolored by religious, political, territorial bias.

It does not matter whether Rani Padmini existed or not, nor is it of consequence that Malik Mohammad Jayasi penned his epic poem two hundred years after Alauddin Khilji’s death and probably drew his storyline from folklore rather than fact. Art is merely expression and is allowed liberties.  I imagine Jayasi took these amply for his writing and storytellers over the years embellished as they chose.  Finally, in the creative hands of Bhansali, in this polarized, intolerant world (of which I seem to be a part today!), a whole other level of artistic license has been claimed. 

What matters is acknowledging and respecting the difference between fiction and non-fiction. Both are effective influencers of consumers’ thought process, sometimes even actions, but perhaps one garners greater impact than the other and, therefore, merits more cautious treatment.  

With fiction, one may take infinite artistic leeway – create, form, deform, kill, revive any character or situation without fear of misrepresentation. After all, they are born in your head and there they exist – at your pleasure and command.  With non-fiction, on the other hand, there must be a responsibility towards truth, albeit with some space for artistic rendition. Devotion to art must not mutilate commitment to truth. When lies are told in non-fiction, history is distorted and the future of the world is altered. Whatever it may eventually be, if based upon fabrication and lies, this cannot be good. 

It is said history is written by the conqueror. Through centuries, much truth has been lost as the victorious chronicled themselves as compassionate saviors while brushing over the admirable qualities of their opponents.  We are a direct outcome of history, truth and falsehood alike, and one finds no way to redeem what has already passed. However, one can certainly protest continuation of similar distortion which will push us deeper into the abyss of misinformation. 

I don’t expect Padmavat to be banned. There are greater untruths on offer from Hollywood on a weekly basis and we never think of banning them. Audiences must have a choice to accept or reject, and be wise to determine the truth.

I have a choice…I choose not to watch, and I choose not to contribute my 45 dirhams to the now confirmed, stupendously successful run of Padmavat-i.

Nefis Lezzetli Ankara

A few weeks ago, as the world bid adieu to 2016, I put the last corrective touches to this and was about to shoot it off for upload…wh...



A few weeks ago, as the world bid adieu to 2016, I put the last corrective touches to this and was about to shoot it off for upload…when I stopped. Someone in Istanbul had taken the adage “Start the year with a bang” literally; as a result, several lay dead and injured. “Damn 2016” many had said some hours earlier as we continued to lose loved ones to death till the very last days, “and good riddance!”. Well, evidently not.

To begin a new year with similar sentiment would be ominous, so I channel my angst into a heartfelt prayer for precious lives lost and persistently hope that 2017 will be gentler, kinder…memorable for better reasons.

My story below is not about Istanbul, but rather about its lesser appreciated cousin, Ankara. Much remarkable history is attached to this city which has carried multiple names and several cultures over the centuries. Its cuisine, therefore, projects influences from many lands. This little piece, thus, is about discovering the best in Ankara for one’s palate. Nothing profound, just huntin’ for good food.

Compared with Istanbul, Ankara is considered low on the happn’in scale. I suppose it’s a bit like Karachi vs. Islamabad, New York vs. Washington DC, Sydney vs. Canberra, Dubai vs. Abu Dhabi, London vs…..err….not sure I know the Ankara equivalent in England! This is not to say that people don’t travel to Ankara. Many do but most, like me, are there for business not pleasure and most, again like me, find Istanbul airport immigration and transfer insufferable. There is a flight an hour from Istanbul to Ankara, like a bus service. Why on earth don’t they start direct international service to Ankara and save us all the exasperation, I wonder? I am told the Government awaits capacity utilization of Istanbul airport before any such consideration. I find it’s a “my cup runneth over” situation at Istanbul Airport , not sure when the Turkish Government will concur it is so. 

For ‘burbites like me, Ankara is infinitely more pleasurable than Istanbul. Wide roads sans traffic and noise, early to bed although not necessarily early to rise as hotel to office is merely a few minutes’ journey, lightly populated hair salons awaiting patrons like me who suffer eternal bad hair days (side note: Turkish hair stylists are the best and salon prices are small change compared with Dubai. Don’t miss a salon day in Turkey when you are there next). That said, there isn’t much to see in Ankara, but don’t let anyone tell you the same about the cuisine. I tasted some divine fare with local friends who know exactly what to order, where.

www.kafesfirin.com  |  for the Heartiest Breakfast
I discovered Turkish breakfast and fell in love. It’s over the top with dozens of sweet and savory items, but one can limit the fare to a couple of slices of divine Vakfikebir bread with tomatoes, olives and a choice of local cheeses. Top it off with an occasional drop of honey and repeated rounds of chai and, as they say, “lezzetli!”

Kafes Firin (The Cage Bakery) is a restaurant chain across the country, but as is true of most chains, one particular unit tends to go the extra mile. I was introduced to the best hidden away in – of all the unlikely places – a petrol station. Locals know to patronize this establishment and seek out its delectable breads as well as a seemingly limitless variation of eggs. “Menemen”, eggs in a pan, is to Turkey what “Khagina” is to us, and it’s a staple, morning go-to.  I have to declare though; I love Turkish breakfast but the watery, tomato-ridden, lightly cooked eggs in Menemen did not bowl me over. Khagina trumps Menemen any time.


www.gunaydinet.com  |  for Overdosing on Meat
“Gunaydin” means good morning, and this too is a chain of restaurants very popular across the country. Yet again, there are some outlets that enjoy a die-hard clientele and are considered a cut above. When in Ankara, just ask for Gunaydin with the best meat dishes…..everyone will know where to direct you.  From the moment you step into the restaurant and are greeted by a butcher proudly showcasing his impressive cuts of meat, to the time you are served twenty versions of kebap, kofte and doner, it’s a desi “gosht-khor’s” paradise. I am not much of a meat eater, but I found the cuts and variations divine and the accompanying condiments to die for. I sampled more meat in one day than I would expect to do in months.

You will say that “Nus-ret”, the elite Turkish eatery now also introduced in Dubai, is the best meat restaurant in Turkey. I agree, Nus-ret is beyond competition. But it is pricey and often beyond budget as well. Gunaydin in Ankara is a great alternate at a much more affordable price. Try it, and don’t forget to order Tursu (pickles) and Hydari (yogurt) to accompany.

 
www.cookshop.com.tr  |  Stress Spelt Backwards is Dessert
So everyone waxed lyrical about the Magnolia Dessert at The Cookshop. It’s not your typical, traditional Turkish Delight dessert but rather a continental creation with variations of fruit, biscuits, and other condiments added to a creamy, fluffy base. I tried it, it was delectable – but I’ve had better.  Regardless, the colorful, mood-lifting collection of desserts at The Cookshop is worth a browse. If you have a serious sweet tooth, you will find much to sample and enjoy.


In Conclusion…

Over the years, having sampled cuisine across the world, I have concluded that there is not much to beat the layered refinement of South Asian dishes or the elegant assembly of Thai creations. Mughlai and Thai – the most cultured, thoughtful, divine food ever – that’s my final word. But I keep hunting, and my Ankara hop was one stop in the pursuit.

Afiyet Olsun – Bon Appetit!

Images taken from Turkish Tea Talk and the sites of the restaurants.

Notes from Erbil – Part 3 (The Country)

Tigris from Erbil to Sulaimaniya The first time I was in Iraq I was 8 years old, between 1969 and 1970. My father led a group of PAF pil...

Tigris from Erbil to Sulaimaniya
The first time I was in Iraq I was 8 years old, between 1969 and 1970. My father led a group of PAF pilots to train the Iraqi Air Force. They flew from Habbaniya Air Force Base but we lived in Baghdad a few miles away. The Pakistani pilots’ squad commanded great respect in military and diplomatic circles. At the time, Saddam Hussein Tikriti was a young army officer whose devilish ambition had not yet been inflicted upon the nation.

I recall we lived in Al Mansoor Building on Al Yarmuk Street.  Our high-rise apartment building was fully air-conditioned, had high-speed elevators, and a brightly lit, immaculately clean, 24/7 grocery store on the ground floor. To an 8-year old Karachiite, it was Intercontinental, Bambino and Saddar morphed into a combined, exciting, modern fairyland.

Every morning, at the crack of dawn as the Air Force vehicle arrived to transport the pilots, another vehicle also arrived and dropped off a box full of freshly baked loaves of bread at the store entrance.  There the box lay, unlocked and unmonitored, as tenants stepped out in their PJs to pick one – or two – up until the stock was depleted. No payment, no stealing, no rush. I suppose the grocery store paid the bakery…I always wondered but never found out how the transaction was secured. Ammi was an early riser and one of the first to fetch the warmest, most delicious bread I have ever had. On weekends, my brother Haroon and I were tasked to bring a loaf up. It was Ammi’s smart tactic to get us out of bed early. Haroon and I also discovered “Mota” ice-cream at the grocery store. It proved a worthy replacement to our favorite “Polka” and Ammi generously treated us to it most evenings. There was a girls' college adjacent to our building and my favorite past time was to watch the girls get on their bikes to ride home just when I was getting off my school bus.

In 1969, Baghdad was a modern city, ahead of others in the region. It must be rubble now. Certainly some of the heritage sites my parents loved to take us to, like the ninth-century Samarra Minaret not far from the city, have been blown off the face of the earth. If bent upon evil, one generation is enough for destructive forces to prevail.

Samara Minaret
 I am in Iraq again, over 40 years later. "First time in Iraq Madam?" the immigration officer inquires. "No" I reply pensively, "I was here once before, when I was 8 years old". He doesn’t bat an eye. "Welcome Back, Madam!" as if the decades were a mere few days. He is too young to have experienced a stable, peaceful and happy Iraq. I am not and, subconsciously, have come seeking it in Erbil since my travel security refused to allow me to step into Baghdad.
Erbil Airport
Erbil, part of the federated Kurdish territory, is not rubble, quite the opposite in fact. I land at a small but spotless, modern airport where I am picked up by the hotel transport. I am driven to the Erbil Rotana located on a quiet suburban street. I am sure I am missing something, whatever remains hidden from a short term visitor, but this is a far cry from Fox News fare. I have two workshops with customers in Erbil, and a number of meetings in Sulaimaniya which is a four hours drive away. I am told we shall be driving along the border with ISIS controlled Kirkuk. “It’s quite safe, Madam” the driver assures me, “If we are careful”, whatever that means. I’m game, though, looking forward to crossing the Tigris on the way, meeting young Pakistani professionals who are helping to establish telecom operations in the city, breaking bread with Iraqi customers with hopes of experiencing a long lost but cherished taste. The night before, as we chat on Whatsapp, I say too much about my scheduled adventure. Happens every time! The kids and Ashi, my goodwill stalkers, panic and urge me not to venture too far from the hotel, to forget about Sulaimaniya, to steer clear of anything remotely associated with “those people”. “Log martey hain wahan…koi zaroorat nahin hai jaaney ki…tell them to come to the hotel to meet you!” Muns pleads and others concur.

I am acutely conscious that this is what travelers are told by their fretful families when they venture into Pakistan. So, in solidarity with ill-governed countries and their misunderstood people,  my own amongst them, I am not about to pay heed to warnings. 

The weather is cold, the hills are undulating and green, the landscape somewhat less fetching than the lush green Margallas but exhilarating nevertheless. We cross the winding Tigris at a narrow point, stopping along the way at several points for security checks which are unexpectedly cursory and superficial. It is inconvenient but not unpleasant. Sulaimaniya is a bustling town with several regional business headquarters. I am surprised to find several Pakistanis who live here with families and feel no fear or insecurity, unconcerned about the war raging a stone’s throw away. Either they are in denial, I think to myself, or they have unraveled the mysterious strategy of terrorism whereby safe havens are pre-defined and kept thus.

Either way, Iraq is in the eye of the storm and  it suddenly strikes me that people live here....it is home to them, these cities are part of a country. To destroy them, like Baghdad, their human face must be stricken from the conscious. Reality TV must present them as morally destructible - land, culture, heritage, people, dreams and aspirations all camouflaged in a cloud of dust rising from rubble - so that 24/7 viewership is able to dismiss them as sub-human, unworthy of consideration, respect or mercy, and not suffer any guilt over the collective sin of violation and destruction.

There is nothing I can contribute to change the fate of this country. After all, what have I been able to do to change the fate of my own? But while I am here I intend to appreciate and respect the land and the people. I will tell them they have a beautiful country and that they must be proud of it.

It is all I ask of people who visit mine.

Mausam e Nau – Coke Studio Pakistan: The Wish List

This is the final piece on Coke Studio Pakistan, Season 9. ( Note to self: Never listen to Muns when she conspires for another listicle –...


This is the final piece on Coke Studio Pakistan, Season 9. (Note to self: Never listen to Muns when she conspires for another listicle – let her try the exhausting task herself!)

A few favorites came together recently in Dubai and I was the idiot travelling yet again so missed the event. Strings and Meesha sang for SKMH and the desi crowd, Pakistanis and Indians alike, are raving about it. 

Consolation related to SKMH is easy. Every time I miss a fund raiser in my neck of the woods I donate anyway, and every time the stinky PMLN media cell tries to trash SKMH, I donate yet again.  Plenty of dirhams have gone out lately to the cause! Thank you PMLN creepia cell for keeping my money honest and unwittingly strengthening what you aim to destroy.  In your own prophetic words… “Alhamdulillah”.

As for Strings and Meesha, one of these days I shall catch Meesha in person and bless her, as a working woman should, for her effort to put cracks in the glass ceiling of women in music. Oh dear, that sounds so Hillary. I’m sure Meesha will fare better though, her spirit is pure and she never stole an election from Bernie.

In the meantime, as another favorite band once said “Thank you for the music, for bringing it to me”.

The X Factor

1. Mohsin “DJ” Haider Abbas:
‘Nuf said. He will emerge as an all rounder soon. Needs a grooming guide, although(already doing rather well with the skin whitening treatment…amazing in’it?. I consider him in the Ali Zafar/Fawad Khan league. 

2. Ali Sethi: Icecream, smooth and satisfying. He will progress because he not only has talent but perseverance to learn.

3. Meesha Shafi: God’s special, gifted creature. She reigns as queen of Pakistani pop rock.

4. Shuja Haider: What a ridiculously talented songwriter and composer. I do wish, though, that composers should stop short of singing. There are better voices that would do Shuja’s extraordinary compositions full justice.

If wishes were horses….their names would be Inclusion and Diversity

• It is heartening to experience the many religious shades of Pakistan’s green and white. The love of music in churches, mandirs and gurdwaras is represented by some artistes and I hope that, along with Islamic kalam, CS will incorporate hymns, bhajans and other religious pieces as well. Kabir’s dohay, Guru Nanak’s writings are sometimes represented; more can be.

• If one were to define Pakistan against a singular context, it would have to be Sufism. It is the thread that links people who speak different languages, follow different faiths, exist in separate economic and political realms. But I wish that CS would stop limiting Sufism to Bhulleh Shah alone. He is supreme, no doubt, and it is to the credit of contemporary musicians that his kalam remains fresh amongst the young, but there are so many others. One can start with Bhitai and end at Rehman Baba.   

• The same goes for languages. Almost half of Season 9 is Punjabi, and a lot of the previous seasons as well. A peppering of Sindhi, Pushto, Rajasthani is not sufficient. That one country boasts languages that are not only spoken differently but often also written so is fascinating. That each language carries hundreds of dialects is absolutely staggering. We haven’t heard enough in Pahari, or Darri, Hindko or Makrani, or English for that matter. 

• I am reminded of my age when I find myself humming old Pakistani film favorites, from an era when masters like Baba Chishti, Khawaja Khursheed Anwar, Sohail Rana, Qateel Shifai, Rashid Attrey, Khawaja Pervaiz wrote and composed. Every number was a refined gem, to be remembered forever. How interesting it would be to have a full season of Pakistani filmi music, refreshed….re-covered…reinvented. Strings have Anwar Maqsood’s full attention, an eye witness of and participant in our cinematic history; his input would be so valuable.

• An experiment to move a little to the left of pop and political correctness would be interesting.  Risky, ofcourse, but CS has a diehard following which will neither falter nor disappoint. One need not become defiant, but one must at least speak; “Bol ke lab…” alongside “Dasht e Tanhai”. How about Strings’ own intoxicatingly hope-inducing “Mein to Dekhoon ga”? Be courageous, take a chance on us.

• It seems that the alternate pop scene is thriving and young Pakistanis are churning out creative pieces in all genres; hard rock, rap, jazz….covers of popular English numbers. Why have we never had an English production? Why no rap, especially when so many good rap artists are showing great work? One of them could be the next international star.

• Is it just me or do you notice a lack of girl power? The great lady Abida who is more equal than others and her worthy follower Sanam are the power duo, with Meesha steadily making a place for herself. Naseebo, unfortunately, let herself be under-utilized, and the rest exist thankfully but deliver mediocrity. Why are there no female directors either? Generations of women have been held back due to misguided societal norms. Now, give the women a chance.

• Where are the children? If CS would go looking for them, I am sure they will be found in every household, in every strata of society. Music is to the soul what food is to life; teach this to the children early. Be the pied piper; gather the children. 

• And finally, it is now quite clear that Amn ki Asha has, inevitably, deteriorated into Amn ka Tamasha, and there is little the Pakistani Government will do about it since their lips are sealed and not “Azad” at all. There is much that Pakistan and India have to haggle over, but they love our music equally as much as we love their movies. These are love affairs divined in heaven and not easily unraveled. Diplomacy runs along parallel tracks, as Iqbal said “Jiss se jigar e lala  mein thandak ho woh shabnam….Daryaon ke dil jiss se dehel  jaein woh toofan”. Let the Army handle the latter, let music be the food for the former. Take the higher moral ground and invite Indian artistes to participate in CS. Let Ali sing with Shreya, let Fawad rap with…err…does India have anyone to match Fawad? Governments never heal wounds, they cause them. People never cause them, they always heal them.

Mausam e Nau – Coke Studio Pakistan: The Productions

Music is sustenance. It lifts the spirit and cleanses the soul. It drives away demons and brings comfort…except when one must critique it...


Music is sustenance. It lifts the spirit and cleanses the soul. It drives away demons and brings comfort…except when one must critique it! Then, it can be a guilt-inducing, taxing chore.

This has not been easy. Studying Season 9 was time consuming and made me realize that I am near illiterate about music. On the one hand I am sobered, on the other I am awed by the herculean task that each production is. It requires passion and commitment, inherent talent and honed skill, patience and collaboration. In the end, one must immerse oneself wholly in the creative process and hope to emerge with something fulfilling and inspiring. Sometimes, one is gifted with a matchless piece; other times, one may achieve nothing. Such persistence and faith is profound.

No wonder musicians are some of the most peaceful people on earth. They have to be to realize their musical potential, to create something prolific and long lasting.

Thus, the comments below are with utmost respect for each member of the Coke Studio team. To us, it’s a few minutes’ listen, a nod or a dismissal, and on to the next. To them, each number is a labor of love, painstakingly brought to life. For their effort, we are grateful.   

The Productions


Here is my take on each number with some comments on why and who. Key pillars are artiste, director and arrangement, with some lines on other, unique differentiators if any. 

I wanted to address the fourth pillar, the songwriter, as well but realized it would be a futile exercise. It would be irreverent to comment on Bhulleh Shah, Amir Khusro, Muzaffar Warsi or Saeed Gilani, even Javed Akhtar and Sabir Zafar, which leaves behind only Mohsin Abbas Haider and Shuja Haider who are both quite brilliant.  The rest are ordinary experiments, thus proving my point that there must be selective inclusion of (not just experimentation with) original lyrics, perhaps a ghazal or a geet. Remember the magic of “Bewajaa”?

The Spectacular

1. Aaqa: This reaffirmation of our collective gratitude is tops. Abida’s is imposing, unfaltering rendition and Shuja’s heartfelt lyrics and composition to refresh an oft-repeated “shukr” is on point; as he says in the BTS “Yeh line yaad to hai lekin kaheen kho gaee hai..Ise dobara logon ke dilon mein zinda karna hai”. Ali holds his own against Abida. He is mellifluous, pitch and diction perfect, unerring.  His “riaz” must be intense and it shows. Aaqa is Aaqa all the way.

2. Uddi Ja: I would rate this highest but for the excellence of Aaqa. DJ’s Faisalabadi roots show and Jaffer does justice to his creation. Mohsin’s voice is sublime and his lyrics deep for someone so young. Makes me wonder about the obstacles of his journey; I would love to learn more about the struggles he mentions in the BTS. What a find!

3. Aaya Laariye: It’s enough to experience Meesha the goddess of pop who single-handedly tips the scales in favour of women artistes (otherwise still struggling and challenged), but Shuja has brought an old memory to life with freshness. Shehnai and dholak to the accompaniment of clapping, shrieking backup vocals brought a giggle. Naeem cannot be faulted, he’s very dependable. Shuja excels with the hookup of two beloved Punjabi numbers. Who thought “Jeeja” would become a sexy word! Definitely a shaadi favorite. As Naeem says in the BTS “outclass”. 

4. Paar Chana De: One cannot go wrong with this one, the subject grasps and holds. Like many of us, Noori seems to have grown up with it and the love shows. Shilpa’s strong rendition and the strings section depicting longing, urgency and danger are winners. Welcoming comments from Shilpa in BTS…hopefully she has taken away good vibes from Lahore and Karachi. 

5. Bholay Bhalley Saiyyan; More of this – departure from the safe – please! Put anything in Meesha’s hands and she can transform it. Shani’s idea to use the sitar for an eclectic, almost naughty number is fun. Meesha is a composite, a package stuffed full of “celebrity”. What other BTS features make-up and outfits, and so appropo for Meesha!

6. Alaa Baali; A stronger female singer would’ve completed the trick. Nirmal did her best but she needs coaching and experience. Jabar, the Pakistani Sukhwinder, nailed it for both of them.  Great experiment by Shiraz to bring together Arabic, Persian and local music. Backup vocals’ spot on, their high notes the high points.

7. Aa Ja Re Morey Saiyyan; Original, new lyrics are always refreshing. Noori’s writing talent is surprising, as is their versatility with composition. Zeb Bangash is predictable but successfully so (whatever happened to Haniya?).

8. Dilruba Na Raazi; Just for his Pushto rendition Faakhir deserves kudos. Zeb should try something different before her dependable good becomes boring.

9. Tu Kuja Man Kuja: Shiraz’s talent transcends in this, as does Rafaqat’s. Reliance, yet again, on timeless, durable lines is frustrating but then one forgives simply because the message is uplifting and the number so well composed. 

The Fabulous

10. Shamaan Pe Gaiyyan: Kashif made me cry, perhaps because the message hits too close to home. Shiraz’s strong foundation in melody is at play and he succeeds in fusing two well loved songs well. Rachel must be commended for catching Punjabi words better than many Punjabi singers, and her high notes are surprising. I wonder what Madam would think of the treatment of her last recorded song?

11. Lagi Bina/Chal Mele Noon Challiye: Nothing can go wrong when Sanam and Saaein sing Guru Nanak’s kalam.  Jaffer brought the two numbers together well. This is a good example of blending two different pieces together…some others should learn from this. But it’s Sanam all the way with her remarkable range. 

12. Khaki Banda: Once again this is Shuja’s show. Umair is good, but Ahmed reminds again that he is a genuinely talented but utterly disinterested singer. His lack of effort and enthusiasm is  palpable. Khaki Banda would have made greater impact if it had more original lines…so much more to say about the arrogance of the human race. 

13. Meri Meri: With apologies to my saint Bhulleh Shah, if I hear him sung one more time I shall disconnect. Is there no curiosity to seek out other, equally powerful kalam? Rizwan is good but more noticeable for his looks than his singing, Sara is ordinary, Shani’s Irish bluesy blend is creative and welcome. Please…enough with Bhulleya!

14. Jaaney Na Tu: Ali Khan as singer and songwriter is a find, and Jaffer has handled the  package sensitively. It’s a good example of fresh lyrics with offbeat treatment. 

15. Dil Kamla: A good effort although relying yet again on power that old favorites carry. Nevertheless, the fusion of old and new works seamlessly. Faakhir has done exceptionally well as a singer and quite well as a director in this case, using the strings section and backup vocals well. Natasha delivers confidently without making a serious mark.

The Adequate

16. Maula e Kull: I dare to say this. Abida’s composition of “Hyderi-am Qalandar-am” is powerful, but the overall number is just more Abida, nothing additional. Even she must be tired of same same. Maybe if she is used for a ghazal (case in point: Jab se Tu Ne and Woh Hamsafar) we will sit up and take notice.

17. Sasu Maangey: I’m a Naseebo fan. She is such a talented artiste, but sadly often misused as in this case. It seems no one coached her nor helped her do this better. Umair sounds as if this is only his song. Redemption comes from backup vocals, the mandolin, the bouquet of rhythm by Shiraz.

18. Balliye/Laung Gawacha: I nearly put Haroon in the X factor list until I found many others are equally promising.  Haroon is the best in this number, but Noori’s disjointed fusion does not impress and QB’s excellent delivery does not redeem. Maybe I’m missing a trick, perhaps a commonality of raag…I don’t know, but I couldn’t connect to this one at all.

19. Jhalliya: We have GOT to give Bhulleh Shah a rest! I give greater credit to Faakhir for the arrangement and the choice of Masuma amongst the three singers, than I would for sticking to safe zone with Bhulleya. Javed is always good, but – well, this is just too safe.

20. O Re: I’m having trouble understanding this. One of the Alis, the screaming one, thinks screaming through every song is sufficient. He’s adorable, talented much, one heck of a guitar player and – ok – he screams “in sur”…but I still don’t connect. There is little by Noori I don’t love, but this eludes me.
 
21. Sab Jag Soye: Besides “Gaey gi Dunya Geet Merey” this is Madam’s most abiding memory.   Purist that I am, the offbeat treatment does not sit well. I appreciate that it experiments but the pieces put together are disjointed and don’t connect. QB is her dependable self, but overall an ordinary number.
 
22. Tera Woh Pyar (Nawaazishen): What a melodious piece, so well arranged by Shuja, and how sadly ruined by Momina that it could not be redeemed by Asim. Damia, Nirmal, Sara, Natasha – anyone of them would’ve added the necessary element. QB? A whole other level…if only…

23. Nimma Nimma: Another one to get teary eyed with. Clearly Shani was affected by the subject matter too, as he states in the BTS. It’s an ordinary number made special because of Maa  and the pain of losing her. I cried.

24. Tu Hi Tu: Ok, good enough..Mehwish wanted to try her hand at this and fared well enough for an actor-singer. But it’s nothing to write home about, not of Shiraz quality.

25. Sadaa: It’s impossible to put Mast Qalandar with Rahat and find fault. There is little novelty in it, but if only for the love of Mast Qalandar and Rahat, this is fabulous. Rahat’s songs seem to be similar, undistinguishable…a dangerous place to be for a popular artiste.

26. Main Raasta: Good idea to encourage young artistes to write their own lyrics, but better results expected. I’m sure youngsters will enjoy the rock element and I suppose it’s easier to go with ridiculous lines like “Mein tum se kehti hoon….kehta hoon” than really digging in for better stuff. 

But Why!?

27. Afreen Afreen: Kill me for rating this poorly when the world is flipping over Momina’s smile, the soft tempo, and Rahat who never falters in “sur” and “taal”. But the fact is, if you take away Javed’s lyrics and Nusrat’s composition, whatever remains doesn’t add much. Momina was ordinary, Rahat seemed preoccupied, Faakhir arranged well but it was not enough. Some things are best left untouched. 

28. Anokha Ladla:  Faakhir obviously lives out of the box, but he is too ambitious for his talent since he completely trashed this complex, delicate composition. Damia seems to agree and sounds unconvincing, and Basit, although adequate, could not redeem it. As I said, some things are best left untouched.

Larger than life…dare not rate

1. Rang:
I’ve heard better versions by many gharanas, by Rahat and Amjad and my favorite, Farid Ayaz and Abu Mohammad. I suppose it is essential to cut a piece down due to time constraint, but Rang should never be subjected to this. Nevertheless, Rang in any form of any length is divine and this time especially so due to Amjad’s sad passing.

2. Man Kunto Maula: To a purist, the new element jarred to begin with, then lent itself to the message. Javed entered with a perfect delivery. Like Rang, one should just leave this master Manqabat alone, but in any form with whatever attachment, it remains beloved.

3. Ae Rah e Haq ke Shaheedo: No matter what is done to this, it will never fail to pull at the heart strings and draw tears. An excellent concept to pay homage not just to the Armed Forces but countless others who continue to lose their lives to the war on terror.

Mausam e Nau – Coke Studio Pakistan: The Preface

As fizzy drinks go, the only one I ever stocked was “hara hara” Pakola, asinine patriotism clouding my judgment despite my determined a...


As fizzy drinks go, the only one I ever stocked was “hara hara” Pakola, asinine patriotism clouding my judgment despite my determined advocacy against soda pops.  Thankfully for the nation’s health although sadly for the Pakistani brand, Pakola is now available only in limited production thus cleansing my refrigerator of fizzy hazards altogether. My children often express nostalgic disappointment over the absence of fizzies in the fridge. In return, I remind them of my maternal generosity towards our collective indulgence, the equally destructive but infinitely more delightful Rooh Afza, presently and perpetually ensconced in our fridge in a befittingly desi, plastic jug. 

I never drink Coke nor its alluring soda siblings, but for two purely personal reasons I can never disparage them either. 

First, because Rizwanullah Khan, bearer of a beloved name and GM of Coca Cola Pakistan, is a gracious human being whose generous friendship I cherish and whose astute professionalism, which has taken Coca Cola Pakistan to extraordinary success despite formidable competition, I respect. Second, because I am an intrepid Coke Studio Pakistan fan and resoundingly declare that, even if it occasionally stumbles into mediocrity, ours is better than everyone else’s.  Yes, I am given to theatrics while plugging brand Pakistan. Hang me!


Amidst the acid smog of negativity surrounding our image (some of it deserved, certainly not all), a few swashbucklers are making a valiant attempt to cleanse the air and restore national spirit and pride.  The spectrum boasts the awesome – Edhi, Shaukat Khanum, The Aga Khan Foundation, SUIT; the sustainables poised to scale –Shan, Bareeze, Naseeb Networks, Bundoo Khan, Nayatel, Govt of KPK(?); and the quirky and audacious – Khaadi, Sattar Buksh, Patari.pk, Blood Orange.  I’ve been too selective; in fact the rainbow carries a multitude of colors which will shine bright once the smog lifts.

Nestled smugly amongst these adorables is the “Sound of the Nation”, Coke Studio Pakistan. That it is born of an international brand is coincidental; that it embodies a quintessentially Pakistani spirit is important. Then, as a brain child of the gifted Rohail Hyatt, and now, in the creative hands of the incredible musical duo Strings, we have seen it evolve, mature and struggle to remain relevant to an audience which is multi-faceted and complex, engaged and appreciative but acutely discerning and critical. Whether it inspires or disappoints, the Coke Studio Pakistan phenomenon becomes yet more immense with each season, and the love affair between the nation and its favorite music show thrives.

For me, the magic springs from two notable aspects; a perceptive understanding of what defines Pakistan – our musical heritage – and a bold celebration of it through offbeat execution.  For too long we have allowed our identity to be hijacked, sometimes by well-meaning but ill-informed pretenders and at other times by evil predators, and often the first casualty has been our music.  But here’s what I know. Music is to Pakistan what water is to health, what air is to breath, what DNA is to life; if one is extinct, the other cannot exist. So, try as they might, misguided pundits who propose to redefine us have not been able to vanquish our music, and amongst many resilient reasons is Coke Studio Pakistan which stubbornly returns, season after season, with our nation’s signature style; the spiritual, earthy and traditional fused with the funky, eclectic and contemporary.


This is not to say that my favorite music show does not, sometimes, disappoint.  Rohail’s extreme experiments were enchanting but eventually tested our tolerance so, as often happens with gifted people, his relevance wore out.  In return, we lucked out with the equally gifted Strings but their refusal to court risk and be adventurous can be tiresome. Regardless, the anticipation with which the nation awaits every new season and the hyper-response the launch evokes reaffirms the fact that Coke Studio Pakistan is not just the sound of the nation but its very heartbeat.

Thus,  in the practice of listicles (memory-prompt: my FB moderator-cum-blogging advisor, Muns the Persistent, tells me these draw high ratings), I shall now attempt to rate Season 9 of Coke Studio Pakistan. Many such listicles exist, you say? Yes, they do but I bet none as comprehensive as the one you are about to experience.  With profound thought and immense care I have charted a category-element matrix for complex evaluation.  Phew! If I put this much work into real work, I’d have no time to do this nonsense. 

Here are the basic criteria against which I have rated each Season 9 production.  And oh, in case you missed the bilingual pun – Mausam e Nau….Season 9….get it!?   

1. 6 episodes, plus the opening collage and the season finale, have been evaluated.  I love the music but I tell you, it will be a while before I ear-phone myself to Coke Studio again. Naseebo screams in my ear and Ali Azmat appears in my dreams – scary shit!

2. An impressive 30 songs comprise the episodes. I didn’t realize there were so many, did you? Each has been assessed for multiple aspects.  It was not difficult to rate some of these low, they deserved it. But listening to the best compete for the top slots (in my head, silly!) was quite stressful.

3. 42 incredible singers, all brilliant (well, nearly all) have been critiqued.  Such pretention on my part as I am as pseudo as can be in my understanding of music.  I beg forgiveness of the gods of melody.

4. An interesting twist in Season 9 was the introduction of directors, some of whom doubled as singers, or vice versa.  Thankfully there were only 6 and since their styles were fairly distinct it was less challenging to critique them.

5. Arrangement, more than composition, captures my interest.  So, the backup vocals, the house band and the strings section are given more than just honorable mention. Other than Meesha Shafi (she is goddess!), the screaming, yod’ling, clapping, rocking Shahab Hussain remains my favorite.

6. I  have nothing to say about BTSs. They bore me. But once again, like an advisory Tinkerbell of blogging, Muns pops up on email “but you must say something about them, kids love them. Write your mental aga Ma, not your physical age!”  Well, that makes me her daughter, Freaky Friday style.  Scary shit again but, ok, you will find some BTS comments.

7. In terms of rating criteria, I have looked for something unique in each number; did the producers step out of safe zone and experiment, was the singer able to “own” it, nail it even though some mega-god has owned it for 800 years, were new lyrics tried and did they work (remember “Bewajaa”? Nabeel Shaukat to die for!), did the new kid on the block match the veteran, is someone a multi-faceted, once in a very long time talent discovery (someone is!), did we miss Atif Aslam and Ali Zafar yet again, why do the boys leave a mark and the girls not – or did they?  Ali Azmat ko ghussa kyun aata hai aur Jaffer Zaidi ko hair commercial kab mile ga? Such profundities did I mull over…

8. One can not write a short course on Season 9 and not say something about Pakistan’s pride, Strings.  If they were older I would marry them both, if they were younger I would adopt them. Since they are altogether the wrong age, I can just love them and say “Hum bhi dekhein ge”.

9. Finally, I mustered the courage to make suggestions for future productions.  Hopefully two things will happen: you will tweet yourselves silly over my epic listicle thus taking it from buried blog to @stringsonline, and my friend Rizwan Khan of Coca Cola will read it and think “hmmm…idea bura nahin hai”.

Now that we are clear on assessment criteria, we can proceed to the results. **Ta Da sound with echo** The real listicle emerges…or…err…not!

This blog entry is too long already. I see you dozing, some even snoring and hey, did you just click your way to another page…you with the attention span of an amoeba?  Ok, I get the message….let’s leave the rest to another day.


BTS, Aaqa, Abida Parveen & Ali Sethi, Episode 1, Coke Studio 9 from Coke Studio on Vimeo.

2/2 of Mausam e Nau coming up soon. Until then, mull over the criteria and let me know what else I should have considered (although there’s no way I’m listening to “Sasu Mangey” one more time…Hang me again!). You should spend at least as much time thinking about these as I’ve done documenting them.  It’s a fair exchange.