Nefis Lezzetli Ankara

A few weeks ago, as the world bid adieu to 2016, I put the last corrective touches to this and was about to shoot it off for upload…when I stopped. Someone in Istanbul had taken the adage “Start the year with a bang” literally; as a result, several lay dead and injured. “Damn 2016” many had said some hours earlier as we continued to lose loved ones to death till the very last days, “and good riddance!”. Well, evidently not.

To begin a new year with similar sentiment would be ominous, so I channel my angst into a heartfelt prayer for precious lives lost and persistently hope that 2017 will be gentler, kinder…memorable for better reasons.

My story below is not about Istanbul, but rather about its lesser appreciated cousin, Ankara. Much remarkable history is attached to this city which has carried multiple names and several cultures over the centuries. Its cuisine, therefore, projects influences from many lands. This little piece, thus, is about discovering the best in Ankara for one’s palate. Nothing profound, just huntin’ for good food.

Compared with Istanbul, Ankara is considered low on the happn’in scale. I suppose it’s a bit like Karachi vs. Islamabad, New York vs. Washington DC, Sydney vs. Canberra, Dubai vs. Abu Dhabi, London vs…..err….not sure I know the Ankara equivalent in England! This is not to say that people don’t travel to Ankara. Many do but most, like me, are there for business not pleasure and most, again like me, find Istanbul airport immigration and transfer insufferable. There is a flight an hour from Istanbul to Ankara, like a bus service. Why on earth don’t they start direct international service to Ankara and save us all the exasperation, I wonder? I am told the Government awaits capacity utilization of Istanbul airport before any such consideration. I find it’s a “my cup runneth over” situation at Istanbul Airport , not sure when the Turkish Government will concur it is so. 

For ‘burbites like me, Ankara is infinitely more pleasurable than Istanbul. Wide roads sans traffic and noise, early to bed although not necessarily early to rise as hotel to office is merely a few minutes’ journey, lightly populated hair salons awaiting patrons like me who suffer eternal bad hair days (side note: Turkish hair stylists are the best and salon prices are small change compared with Dubai. Don’t miss a salon day in Turkey when you are there next). That said, there isn’t much to see in Ankara, but don’t let anyone tell you the same about the cuisine. I tasted some divine fare with local friends who know exactly what to order, where.

www.kafesfirin.com  |  for the Heartiest Breakfast
I discovered Turkish breakfast and fell in love. It’s over the top with dozens of sweet and savory items, but one can limit the fare to a couple of slices of divine Vakfikebir bread with tomatoes, olives and a choice of local cheeses. Top it off with an occasional drop of honey and repeated rounds of chai and, as they say, “lezzetli!”

Kafes Firin (The Cage Bakery) is a restaurant chain across the country, but as is true of most chains, one particular unit tends to go the extra mile. I was introduced to the best hidden away in – of all the unlikely places – a petrol station. Locals know to patronize this establishment and seek out its delectable breads as well as a seemingly limitless variation of eggs. “Menemen”, eggs in a pan, is to Turkey what “Khagina” is to us, and it’s a staple, morning go-to.  I have to declare though; I love Turkish breakfast but the watery, tomato-ridden, lightly cooked eggs in Menemen did not bowl me over. Khagina trumps Menemen any time.


www.gunaydinet.com  |  for Overdosing on Meat
“Gunaydin” means good morning, and this too is a chain of restaurants very popular across the country. Yet again, there are some outlets that enjoy a die-hard clientele and are considered a cut above. When in Ankara, just ask for Gunaydin with the best meat dishes…..everyone will know where to direct you.  From the moment you step into the restaurant and are greeted by a butcher proudly showcasing his impressive cuts of meat, to the time you are served twenty versions of kebap, kofte and doner, it’s a desi “gosht-khor’s” paradise. I am not much of a meat eater, but I found the cuts and variations divine and the accompanying condiments to die for. I sampled more meat in one day than I would expect to do in months.

You will say that “Nus-ret”, the elite Turkish eatery now also introduced in Dubai, is the best meat restaurant in Turkey. I agree, Nus-ret is beyond competition. But it is pricey and often beyond budget as well. Gunaydin in Ankara is a great alternate at a much more affordable price. Try it, and don’t forget to order Tursu (pickles) and Hydari (yogurt) to accompany.

 
www.cookshop.com.tr  |  Stress Spelt Backwards is Dessert
So everyone waxed lyrical about the Magnolia Dessert at The Cookshop. It’s not your typical, traditional Turkish Delight dessert but rather a continental creation with variations of fruit, biscuits, and other condiments added to a creamy, fluffy base. I tried it, it was delectable – but I’ve had better.  Regardless, the colorful, mood-lifting collection of desserts at The Cookshop is worth a browse. If you have a serious sweet tooth, you will find much to sample and enjoy.


In Conclusion…

Over the years, having sampled cuisine across the world, I have concluded that there is not much to beat the layered refinement of South Asian dishes or the elegant assembly of Thai creations. Mughlai and Thai – the most cultured, thoughtful, divine food ever – that’s my final word. But I keep hunting, and my Ankara hop was one stop in the pursuit.

Afiyet Olsun – Bon Appetit!

Images taken from Turkish Tea Talk and the sites of the restaurants.